I’ve recently taken an interest in vintage watches—specifically those from lesser-known brands. While many collectors focus on amassing collections of flagship models from the likes of Rolex, Omega, and JLC, the watches produced by smaller Swiss brands in the mid-20th century often offer extremely good value and the chance to own something truly unique.

For gold watches in particular, the price today barely exceeds the metal value of the case after gold’s recent run in the market (pocket watches even more so, to the point that an increasing number of listings will often mention their razor-thin premium over the raw gold value directly).

One such purchase I made last month was a Hever chronograph from 1969, reference 1375, in an 18k rose gold case and powered by a Valjoux 7733 hand-wound movement.

I purchased it through Chrono24 for €999, plus a pre-tariff escalation import duty of approximately $30 (which by the time you’re reading this will almost certainly be substantially more).

Hever Chronograph Ref. 1375 – 38mm x 44mm, manual wind, 18k rose gold

Consider that most brands charge in excess of $20,000 for a gold dress watch. While this watch may be less than 5% of the price, I believe it’s hard to argue that it’s 5% of the quality, or that I receive 5% of the joy from it.

Brand Overview

Hever is not a widely recognized name today, and very little documentation exists. From what I could gather, it was active in the 1950s through early 1970s and appears to have been one of many Swiss assemblers of the period—sourcing cases, dials, and movements from specialized manufacturers and selling them under a private label.

Several surviving examples of Hever watches include chronographs labeled “Ferrotex” on the dial, typically accompanied by “Antimagnetic” and “Incabloc” markings. Cases were often 18k gold, either rose or yellow (though I have come across a handful of steel pieces as well). Movement choices included the Landeron 248 in earlier models and the Valjoux 7733 in later ones. Based on auction records and serial patterns, the reference 1375 was likely produced around 1968–1969, just before quartz watches upended the mechanical market.

A lot of the Hever story is likely lost to history, but in another sense the story continues as these watches find new hands, and I hope that this piece will add a little bit to the story.

Case and Dial

The watch has a 38mm diameter case, with a 44mm lug-to-lug length and a snap-on caseback. The case is solid 18k rose gold and hallmarked accordingly. While there is visible wear on the sides—likely due to the softness of the gold—the bezel, lugs, and caseback are in good condition.

The dial is silver with a bi-compax layout: running seconds at 9 o’clock and a 45-minute chronograph counter at 3. It includes:

• A blue telemeter scale on the outer edge
• A red tachymeter scale inside that
• Applied hour markers with black enamel centers
• Gold-tone dauphine hands for hours and minutes
• A slim chronograph seconds hand and stick subdial hands

There is no date complication, no lume, and no brand embellishment beyond the functional dial printing.

The Movement: Valjoux 7733

The watch is powered by the Valjoux 7733, a manually wound chronograph movement produced from approximately 1969 to 1978. It evolved from the Valjoux 7730, which itself was derived from the Venus 188 following Valjoux’s acquisition of Venus in the 1960s.

Key specifications:

• 17 jewels
• 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)
• ~45-hour power reserve (manual wind)
• Dual-register chronograph (running seconds + 45-minute counter)
• Cam-switching chronograph architecture
• Incabloc shock protection
• No date

Compared to modern chronograph movements like the Valjoux 7750 or Seiko NE88, the 7733 is simpler. It lacks automatic winding, has a lower beat rate, and uses a cam-lever switching mechanism rather than a column wheel. The cam system is more cost-effective and easier to manufacture, but the chronograph action is less smooth. And it’s louder than any of my other pieces. That said, it’s reliable and easy to service, with good parts availability due to widespread use in the 1970s.

Notably the watch was measured to keep time to +/-2 seconds per day following service—an excellent result for a vintage watch (matching the specs of even a modern Rolex).

Wear and Usability

The watch wears slightly larger than its 38mm size suggests, due to the wide dial and thin bezel. The pushers require deliberate pressure to engage and reset, which is typical for cam-lever chronographs. Winding is smooth, and you can feel the mainspring resistance build near full wind (unlike many modern pieces, this watch can be over-wound unless you stop once you feel the resistance).

While the strap is aftermarket, the brown leather pairs well with the warmth of the rose gold. Lug width is listed as 20mm, which makes strap replacements straightforward, though the strap is very slightly too wide for the watch. It’s either 19mm or the gold lugs have not maintained their original shape over time.

There is no water resistance to speak of, and the crystal is acrylic (a less prestigious, but perhaps more joyful material that is still a hallmark of certain high-end pieces, such as the modern Omega Speedmaster).

Hever Chronograph Ref. 1375 paired with appropriate clothing

Conclusion

This Hever chronograph is an example of the kind of value that still exists in the vintage watch market, particularly among brands that no longer exist and didn’t build extensive archives.

The movement is reliable, the case is solid gold, and the overall design is beautiful. It’s the only impulse watch purchase I’ve ever made, and I become happier with the decision every day. It would have been a pity to let this one get away.

For collectors interested in mechanical chronographs, especially with historically significant calibers like the Valjoux 7733, pieces like this offer a low-cost way to own something mechanically interesting, well-proportioned, and made from quality materials.

Specs Recap

• Brand: Hever
• Reference: 1375
• Year: ~1969
• Case: 18k rose gold
• Caseback: 18k rose gold
• Diameter: 38mm
• Movement: Valjoux 7733 (manual wind)
• Functions: Time, chronograph
• Strap: Brown leather, 20mm lug width (Aftermarket)
• Price paid: €999 + import duty and service

This piece was purchased on Chrono24 from Kievit Classics in the Netherlands who curate a selection of incredible vintage pieces.